Paris is dreamy, even when overcast and cool, as today. One only needs to wander around aimlessly on the streets for an hour or two to have a full day's sights and entertainment. Just now I got hopelessly lost in all the small, angular streets of the neighboring 9th arrondissement, but ended up back at Place Pigalle, my home metro station, entirely without trying.
First impressions, despite being here two weeks already: Everthing and everyone is smaller than in the U.S.. An "SUV" here looks like a toy at first, until it falls into context with all the cars, which are all also tiny. Including the police cars--a Peugot the size of a Honda Civic which always seem to have four policiers inside. It's as if the opposite of McDonald's supersizing has taken place. In turn, everything else is small too, apartments, portions in restaurants, bottles of pills at the pharmacy (ibuprofen comes as 10 max). People are thin. Everyone. And fashions of the moment (pencil coats and the like) accentuate the thin lines. By contrast, public things are vast--monuments, parks especially, boulevards. Compared to home, it is like looking in a mirror.
So, the topic of the day is bacon. During my first week, I looked around for some to be able to make a hearty home-style breakfast before heading out for the day. Since bacon makes the world go 'round (my world anyway--you too Briana!) it was very disappointing to find that bacon didn't seem to be available despite the multitude of small butcher and cured meat shops nearby. Then yesterday I was in yet another incredible charcutier who does all his own meat curing, pate preparation, etc.. One of the most beautiful spaces a meat lover could end up. And they had bacon! As they sliced some off of the slab, though, and I asked for some pate, and some prosciutto, and some dry salami, I realized my mistake. It is all bacon! It's all cured meat, it's everywhere, and so VOILA, France's love for cured meats is really another take on the love for bacon. Again, it is a look in the mirror. I have a feeling this is going to happen repeatedly . . .
8 comments:
Hi Steve-O!!!
Yeah!!! Your blog is up! Now I can travel Paris vicarious.
Glad to hear your search for bacon revealed the truth of cured meats: it's partout.
One thing, fromage perdu means lost cheese, fromage parfait means perfect cheese. I personally like the search for lost cheese, but thought you'd want to know.
Safe travels and looking forward to seeing you in a few months!
-Susan G.
You have left the country and gone straight to the motherland...you will be "cured" of all that ailes you...I thought bacon on every corner was merely a bedtime story told to small children...But in your pursuit for lost cheese you have found a heap of cured meat...LIFE IS SO GOOD!!! xoxoxoxo
LOVE YOU!!!! xoxoxoxoxox
Ps I just had bacon for the fisrt time in 2 months...I have no idea how I managed!!! xoxoxoxox
mmmmmmmm, your tales of heaps of bacon have made my tummy growl. i am now remembering having our first and last breakfast together before you left. the way the bacon was cooked slow to perfection and how you poached the eggs extra long for me! awwwwwhhhh, i have to say i am envious of the romantic ideal paris days you are experiencing. it sounds possible to actually fall in love with the city itself. being surrounded simultaneously by so much whimsical beauty and historical architectural magnificence!!! if you see andrew bird strolling down the streets playing his violin and whistling, please don't tell me. keep on posting though. i love it.
big warm hug to you,
emily
Hello Stevo!
It sounds like you are truly enjoying the goodness there (i.e. bacon!). Thank you for putting a blog! I'll definitely check back on occaision. I would love to hear of your accordian-related adventures!
-Your very, very, Evil Twin
Great picture, what a view. Is the Moulin Rouge, or what's left of it, still down the street? I, too, thought you were looking for the "lost cheese" and thought it sounded as good a quest as any. Take care, your very, very, Evil Cousine.
hanging out with lowell and sara right now in seattle... we miss you. wish you were here... better yet, wish we were there (minus the bacon). keep up the fine travels. my friend hillary and her bo ludwig will be getting back into town next week or so... you should definitely get in touch. you'd groove on each other.
xoxo, deb
Hi Steve-OH! We are SO out of the loop! I'm remembering the "let's get together for dinner" conversation - did you mean in Paris? hmmmm Guess we'll have to dream up a way to be foreign right here in Bend when you return - might not be too hard. Til then, we'll enjoy Paris vicariously.
adieu mon ami
Annie & Kestrel
Mmmmm...Bacon...One of my favorite memories involving cured meats in Spain was watching a 70 year old man walk home from the butcher with the whole back leg o ham in his hand - just barely missing the ground as he walked. Enjoy. Love the stories.
Judy
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